Late Summer Lawn Seeding - September 1, 2023 - Amy Timmerman - Extension Educator
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- [0:00] This is Amy Timmerman with Nebraska Extension.
- [0:03] The establishment of a new lawn requires careful planning and hard work.
- [0:07] However, it is time well spent.
- [0:10] The effort site devoted to site preparation and turf establishment
- [0:13] will be reflected in the quality of the turf for many years.
- [0:16] The best time to establish a lawn from seed is from mid-August to mid-September.
- [0:20] Late summer planing has several advantages over spring seeding.
- [0:24] The cool season grasses will germinate quickly in the warm soil of late summer.
- [0:28] The warm fall days and cool nights promote rapid turf growth.
- [0:33] Also, few weed species germinate in fall so there is little weed competition.
- [0:39] The first step in planting a new lawn is the establishment of the rough grade.
- [0:43] Remove construction debris, then fill in low spots, and level off high areas.
- [0:47] The grass should slope away from the foundation
- [0:50] of the house, driveway, and sidewalks.
- [0:52] The rough grading should be done well in advance
- [0:54] of seeding to allow settling to occur.
- [0:57] At least 4 to 6 inches of good soil are needed to establish a lawn.
- [1:01] If necessary, bring in additional topsoil or organic matter.
- [1:05] Be sure the topsoil or organic matter is weed free.
- [1:08] Incorporate the additions into the top 6 inches of soil.
- [1:12] To determine soil fertility, conduct a soil test.
- [1:15] Apply the recommended fertilize, then incorporate it into the soil.
- [1:18] Where a soil test has not be made, apply 10 pounds of 10-10-10 or
- [1:23] similar analysis fertilizer per 1000 feet and till it into the soil.
- [1:28] The final step in soil preparation is hand raking the area.
- [1:32] This is also the last opportunity to establish the final grade.
- [1:35] Immediately prior to seeding, apply a starter fertilizer.
- [1:40] A starter fertilizer is high in phosphorous.
- [1:43] An important key to the successful
- [1:45] establishment of new lawn is the selection
- [1:47] of the best suited turf grass species for the site.
- [1:50] Kentucky Bluegrass is the best adapted turf grass
- [1:53] for sunny areas that receive at least 6 hours of direct sun each day.
- [1:57] Choose a seed mix that contains at least 2 or 3 Bluegrass varieties.
- [2:02] The fine leaf fescues perform best in shady locations.
- [2:06] The fine leaf fescues include Creeping Red Fescue,
- [2:09] Hard Fescue, Chewings Fescue, and Sheep Fescue.
- [2:13] Perennial rye grass is often used in seed mixes because of it's
- [2:16] ability to germinate and establish quickly.
- [2:19] For setting locations, select a seed mix containing
- [2:22] 80 to 90% Kentucky Bluegrass and 10 to 20% Perennial Rye Grass.
- [2:28] In lawn that contain sun and shade, select a mixture containing 50 to 60%
- [2:33] Kentucky Bluegrass, 30 to 40% fine leaf fescue, and 10% perennial rye grass.
- [2:39] Heavily shaded areas that receive less than 2 hours
- [2:43] of direct sun should be seeded with 100% fine leaf fescues.
- [2:47] Buy a high quality seed mix.
- [2:50] Avoid grass seed mixtures containing a high percentage
- [2:52] of annual rye grass, weed seed, or inert material.
- [2:56] The higher quality seed will be more expensive but there will be fewer problems.
- [3:01] To achieve uniform seed distribution, apply the seed with a drop type seeder.
- [3:05] Sow half the seed in one direction.
- [3:07] Apply the remaining half at a right angle to the first application.
- [3:11] After sowing the seed, lightly rake or drag the area.
- [3:15] The seed should be covered to a depth of 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
- [3:18] While not necessary, you can roll the area
- [3:21] lightly to assure good contact between the seed and the soil.
- [3:24] To promote seed germination, mulch the area with clean weed free straw.
- [3:28] Mulching material helps to conserve soil moisture.
- [3:32] They also prevent soil erosion and crusting of the soil surface.
- [3:36] Do not apply to much mulch.
- [3:38] It may smother the emerging seedling.
- [3:40] Approximately 50% of the soil should be visible thru the straw.
- [3:43] Approximately 1 bale per 1000 feet of area should be adequate.
- [3:47] Erosion control mats or blankets are excellent options
- [3:51] when sowing seeds on steep slopes and other erosion prone areas.
- [3:55] After the ground has been mulched, water the area.
- [3:59] Moisten the upper 1 inch of soil.
- [4:01] After the initial watering, irrigate the area frequently and lightly.
- [4:05] The objective is to keep the seed bed or the upper inch of soil continuously moist.
- [4:09] Do not allow the seed bed to dry out during the germination period.
- [4:13] It maybe necessary to water 3 or 4 times daily on windy, sunny days.
- [4:18] When the grass seedlings are 2 inches tall,
- [4:20] start watering less frequently but deeper.
- [4:23] The new grass should be mowed when it is 3 inches tall.
- [4:26] Make sure the mower blade is sharp.
- [4:28] Mow at a height of 2 -2 1/2 inches.
- [4:30] Regular mowing through the remainder
- [4:32] of the fall will help to thicken the turf.
- [4:34] Questions regarding your lawn, please visit your local
- [4:37] extension educator or visit byf.unl.edu.
- [4:42] This has been Amy Timmerman with Nebraska Extension.